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DIRECTIONS 



FOR USING 



THE NEW YORK 



Self-Instructing System and Chart 



FOR (.'L'TTING 



LADIES'.AND MISSES' DRESSES, BASQUES 
AND OTHER GARMENTS. 



INVRWTED BY 

D. B. B R I GGS 

ALBANY, N. Y. 



1SS9. 



ALBANY, N. Y 

THE BRIGGS CHART CC 

119 State Stref 



Office of "^ 

■ i 
The Brigc.s Chart Company, 1- 

i 
Albany. N. \^. I 



We want agents in every city, village and town in the 
United States and Canada to sell our valuable Chart. 

Parties wishing to' become agents for the sale of this 

S^i^ T. ■ ♦-:,, System and Chart, will receive a circular 

>ale price-list, also full directions how to 
3ther valuable information, by addressing 



THE BRIGGS CHART CO., 

Albany, N. Y. 




INVENTOR OF 
THE NEW YORK 

KOR CUTTINQ 

LADIES' GARMENTS. 



^1889^ 




Entered according to Act of Congress in the year eigliteen hundred and eighty-nine. 

By D. B. BRIGGS, 

In tlie Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D. C. 



WEED, PARSONS & CO., 

ELECTRO TYHERS AND PRINTERS, 

ALBANY, N. Y. 



INTRODUCTION. 



This is an age of progression, and there is no good 
reason why ladies should not have a more simple, better 
and easier manner of cutting their garments. 

The inventor has lone noticed the demand for a 
Self-Instructing System and Chart for Cutting Ladies' 
and Misses' Dresses, Basques and other garments. 

This system has been invented for the express purpose 
of supplying that demand. 

Only one thing is necessary in using this system to 
make it a perfect success, and that is, to work by the 
Directions and Illustrations in this book in every part 
and place — in measuring, dotting, drafting, cutting and 
basting. 

If this is accurately done, you are sure of success. 

Yours truly, 

D. B. BRIGGS. 



DIRECTIONS FOR DRAFTING. 



If the Chart has been coiled around a roll, it can be 
made level by ironing- the crowning side with a hot flat 
before cutting out. It is not in condition for use until each 
piece is cut around on the outside close to the line. In 
doing this great care should be taken in order to have the 
edges straight and smooth. 

We always furnish a tape measure with the Chart, which 
is included in the price. 

Commence by taking three measures according to the 
directions and illustrations in this book. 

It is essential that the measures be taken very accurately, 
as no pattern or garment can be cut to fit nicely unless the 
measures are correctly taken, and the drafting accurately 
done. 

The breast measure should be taken as is seen by the 
illustrations 1 and 2. 

In taking the measure stand at the person's back; take 
the breast measure first, hold the end of the tape measure 
where the numbers commence in the right hand, pass it 
under the arms above the bust, bring the end of the tape 
to the center of the back, and hold it in your right hand, 
the long part in your left. Standing at the left side of the 
person, as represented in illustration 2, see that it is above 
the bust as in illustration 1, close to the arms and straigrht 
across the shoulders ; draw the tape as tight as you wish 
the dress when made, and set down the figures. 



New York Self-Instructing System and Chart. 



Next drop the tape to the waist, and take a tight measure 
in the same manner, and set the figures with the others. 

Take the measure for the length of waist under the right 
arm, having it raised one foot from the body ; place the 
tape as high as you wish the dress, then let the arm be 
down and measure to the natural waist ; allow one-half inch 
if it be for a dress, but allow nothing for a basque. Set 
down the figures with the others. 

Get some heavy white printing paper if it is handy, or 
some buff-colored thick manilla wrapping paper at a dry- 
goods store ; if neither is to be had, send ten cents in stamps 
to our address and we will send you ten sheets of suitable 
paper by mail. 

DIRECTIONS FOR DRAFTING THE FRONT OF A 
BASQUE PATTERN. 

Set down your measures on the paper so they will be just 
above the bust on the pattern when drafted. 

Suppose the breast measure to be 32 inches. 

Suppose the waist measure to be 24 inches. 

Suppose the under-arm measure to be 8 inches. 

Commence by drawing a line as long as necessary for the 
pattern, the width of the dart rule on the edge of the paper 
nearest to you, which is necessary only when drafting for a 
very full bust, in order to give more breadth. 

Lay the Chart even and straight with this line (see illus- 
tration 3) ; dot for neck in front at B, as directed on the 
Chart for 32 breast measure; dot opposite 32 on Front 
Neck Scale D, for height of neck ; dot opposite 32 on Front 
Shoulder Scale at E, for length of shoulder ; dot opposite 
32 on Scale F, for width across the breast ; dot opposite 32 
on Front Scale G, for size of arm-hole. 

Draw the shoulder line from dot made at D, to dot made 
at E, with the upper edge of the Chart. Lay H, on 
the Chart opposite the dot made at B, for neck in front, and 



Directions for Using the 



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New York Self-Instructing System and Chart, 








lo Directions for Using the 

the part at I, at dot made at D, and draw a line from one 
dot to the other for front of neck. Take the part of the 
Chart marked Front Arm-size, and place 32 on Scale J, at 
dot made on Scale E, letting the edge at K, touch the dot 
made at Scale F. (See illustration 4.) 

Be sure that the arm-size is placed correctly against these 
dots, and draw a line from the shoulder line as far as oppo- 
site of L, and make a dot there on the paper for the top of 
the gore line ; let L, remain at that dot, and drop the upper 
part of the arm-size to the dot made at Scale G, then draw 
a line from one dot to the other. 

Place the end of the scale rule marked R, at the dot 
made opposite L, and measure straight down 8 inches on 
the rule and make a dot ; place the end of this rule marked 
R, even and square with the line in front, having the straight 
edge touch the dot made for the length of waist, and draw 
a line nearly the length of the rule. Change ends with the 
rule and place the end marked S, even and square with the 
line in front, lettino- the straig^ht edoe touch the dot made 
opposite L. Then dot at the waist measure 24 on Dart 
Scale T, and 24 on Dart Scale U, for the height of the 
darts ; drop the rule to the lower side of the waist line, dot 
on this line at 24 on the Dart Scale Y ; dot opposite 24 on 
Scale W, and opposite 24 on Dart Scale X ; dot at 24 on 
Gore Scale Y, also dot at 24 on Waist Scale Z. (See illus 
tration 5.) 

Take the dart rule and place the point at the dot made 
at Scale T, letting the edge nearest to you be placed against 
the dot made at the Scale V, and draw a line both sides of 
the dart nearly 6 inches below the waist line- ; place the 
point of the dart rule against the dot made on Scale U, and 
the edge of the dart nearest to you against the dot made at 
Scale W, and draw a line on the side of the dart nearest to 
you ; let the point remain at the same (see illustration 6) 



New York Self-Instructing System and Chart, ii 



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New York Self-Instructing System and Chart. 13 

dot, and move the dart to the dot made on Scale X, and 
draw a line on the side of the rule from you. 

Now draft the gore under the arm, which is done by 
placing the end of the scale rule marked R, at the dot under 
the arm made at L, with the straight side of the rule toward 
you, having the other edge touch the dot on the waist line 
made at Scale Y ; draw a line from one dot to the other, 
then turn the rule the other side up and draw a line from 
dot to dot, making the other side of the gore. 

Take the same rule and place R, on it, at dot made at 
Scale G, on the Chart, have the straight side toward you, 
letting the lower end of the other side be against the dot 
on the waist line made at Scale Z (see illustration 7), and 
draw a line from one dot to the other ; then dot on this 
line half an inch up from dot made at Z, and draw a line 
from this dot to the dot on waist line made at Scale Y, 
making the waist so much shorter at this place. 

This part you have just drafted is called the Front Side 
Body, sometimes the Side Form. 

You now have the front drafted except the skirt, which 
must be changed in length and fullness according to the 
style and fashion. 

I will give instructions in drafting one about six inches 
in length in front. 

Will commence at the small dart by taking the dart rule 
and measure down six inches from the waist line and dot 
on the line nearest to you ; measure from you ^ an inch and 
make a dot ; place the rule at this dot, and let the upper part 
intersect the dart line toward you ^ an inch below the waist 
line ; draw a line from there to this dot ; draw no line on 
the other side, but use the line made in drafting the dart. 

Next measure down from waist line 5|- inches in the center 
of the other dart, draw a line across the dart there, dot on 
this line i an inch in from the dart line on the side toward 
you, place the rule at this dot, let the other part of the rule 



New York Self-Instructing System and Chart. 15 

be placed against the dart line toward you, similar to the 
line on the front dart, draw a straight line from dart line to 
the dot, draft a similar line on the other side to a dot i an 
inch in from the line. 

Measure down from dot made at 24 on Scale Y, 42 inches 
(in doing this have the end of the rule even and straight 
with the line), make a dot, then measure from you with the 
rule 2 inches, make a dot and draw a straight line from dot 
made at Scale Y, to this dot, draw a line across the bottom. 

Measure straight down from dot made opposite 24 on 
Scale Z, 31 inches, make a dot, then measure from that dot 
out from you 2 inches, and 2^ for a very full skirt, and make 
a dot, place the point of the dart rule at the waist line, made 
^ an inch above the dot made at 24 on Scale Z, and draw a 
line on the side from you to the dot. 

Before drafting- the line for the other side of the skirt, 
draw a line across the bottom as long as the other part of 
the skirt. (See illustration 8.) 

Now cut out both parts of the pattern exactly by the 
lines ; it will be noticed after cutting out the front part, that 
there is not paper enough left to draft the other side of the 
skirt of the side-body, pin this part firmly on to another piece 
of paper, measure from the place where the dot was made at 
24 on Scale Y, 4^ inches straight down and make a dot, 
then measure toward you i inch and make another dot, 
place the rule at the dot made at. 24 on Scale Y, on the 
waist line, and draw a straight line to this dot ; draw a line 
across the bottom and cut it out, by cutting around the part 
that was pinned on, making a side-body pattern with a skirt 
complete. (See illustration 14, page 25.) 

When the breast measure is more than 6 inches larger 
than the waist measure, it is a great improvement to round 
out the line in front from ^ to i inch on each side of the 
front opposite the fullest part of the bust, tapering it into 
the front line at the waist line, also to the front line at a 



New York Self Instructing System and Chart. 17 




Directions for Using the 



point from i|^ to 2 inches below the neck line. Lay a short 
plate in the edge of the lining opposite the fullest part of 
the bust, or cut out a 22II^::==* shape piece i- an inch wide, 
and 2 A inches long ; sew it up. Either will have the tend- 
ency to straighten the front line and still retain the fullness 
across the bust. 

This should be done on the linino^, not on the outside 
material. (See illustration 14, page 25.) 

DIRECTIONS FOR DRAFTING A DRESS PATTERN. 

Take the measures the same and draft both front and 
back of the waist the same as a pattern for a basque, omit- 
ting to draft the skirt. 

Make the waist ^ an inch longer under the arm than the 
measure, and i inch longer in front than the waist-line ; cut 
it off at the waist ; observe the same rules as in cutting a 
basque pattern. 

DIRECTIONS FOR DRAFTING THE BACK OF THE 
BASQUE PATTERN. 

Draw a line i inch from the edge of the drafting paper 
as long as is necessary for the pattern. 

Lay the Chart even and straight with this line (see illus- 
tration 9), dot opposite 32 on Back Neck Scale M, draw a 
line by the Chart from this dot to the line in front ; be sure 
the Chart is even and straight with the line in front, then 
dot opposite 32 on Back Scale N, also at 32 on Back Scale 
O, and dot at 32 on Back Scale P, drop the top of the 
Chart to dot made at Scale N, letting it lay at dot made at 
Scale M, and draw a line from one dot to the other for 
shoulder line. 

Place O, at dot made at Back Scale P, lettino- the edg-e of 
the Chart touch the dot made at 32 on Scale O, and 
Scale N (see illustration 10), draw a line from dot on Scale 
N, to dot on vScale P. 



New York Self-Instructing System and Chart, sq 




20 



Directions por Using the 




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New York Self-Instructing System and Chart. 21 



Take the dart rule and measure straight down from dot 
made at Scale P, 8r inches, making the back ^ of an inch 
lono^er than the front. 

(In drafting the back, when the waist measure is 24 inches 
or less, make the back the same length of w^aist as the front, 
when the waist measure is between 24 and 28 inches, draft 
the back ^ of an inch longer than the measure for the front ; 
between 28 and 32, draft the back ^ of an inch longer than 
the front measure.) 

Lay the dart rule at right angles with the line in front, 
having the end even and square with that line, having the 
right edge of the rule at the dot made for the length of the 
waist, draw a line from this dot to the line in front, move 
the rule down to the right of this line, have the edge by the 
side of it, and the square end of the dart rule even with the 
front line (see illustration 11), and dot on back Waist 
Scale 6, opposite 24 and Scale 8 at 24, for the width of the 
back on waist line. 

Place the mark on the side of the Chart opposite figure 5, 
at the dot made opposite 32 on Back Scale O, having the 
lower edge at the dot made opposite of 24, on Back Waist 
Scale 6 on waist line (see illustration 12), draw a line from 
dot to dot. 

Place the end and side of scale rule marked R, at dot 
made at Scale P, having the straight edge of the rule 
toward you, the other side at the lower end at the dot on 
the waist line, made opposite 24, on Back Waist Scale 8, 
and draw a line from one dot to the other. 

(Before drafting the skirt, measure the side seam of the 
front, and make this line the same length by raising the 
waist line higher or making it lower the whole width of 
the back. Be sure and measure down on the front only to 
the upper waist line, leaving off the ^ inch there as shown 
in the drafting.) 



22 



Directions for Using the 




New York Self-Instructing System and Chart. 2 



The drafting of the skirt of the back of the basque is 
done by measuring straight down from the dot on waist 
Hne made at 24 on Back Waist Scale 6, 5I inches ; then 
measure from that dot i inch from you, make a dot and 
draw a straight line from dot made at Scale 6 to this dot ; 
then measure down 6^ inches on the front line from the 
waist line ; then measure i inch toward you, make a dot 
and draw a straight line from the waist line to this dot, and 
draw a line across the bottom. 

Measure down from dot made opposite 24 on Scale 8, 4 
inches and make a dot, then measure from that dot out 
from you i inch — sometimes more ; make a dot and draw 
a straight line from dot made at Scale 8 to this dot. 

Before drafting the line for the other side of the skirt, 
draw a line across the bottom as long as the other part of 
the skirt. (See illustration 13-) 

Now cut out both parts of the pattern exactly by the 
lines. It will be noticed, after cutting out the center part, 
that there is not paper enough left to draft the other side 
of the skirt of the side-body. 

Pin this part firmly on to another piece of paper ; measure 
down 5^ inches from the place where the dot was made on 
Scale 6, and make a dot ; then measure toward you 2 inches 
(for a full skirt, more) and make another dot. 

Now place the point of the dart rule at the dot made at 
Scale 6 on the waist line, having the edge toward you ; 
touch the last dot, and draw a slightly curved line from one 
dot to the other. 

Draw a line across the bottom and cut it out by cutting 
around the part that was pinned on, making a side-body 
pattern with a skirt complete. (See illustration 14.) 

Should you wish the skirt shorter on the sides than in 
front and back, you can cut it off to suit the style and 
fashion. 



26 Directions for Using the 



DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING A LINING BY THE 

PATTERN. 

The pattern should be cut out exactly on the lines made 
in drafting, also the darts. 

Cut the front first ; commence by placing each piece of the 
pattern separately on a double thickness of good silicia or 
other firm material, in such a manner that the thread of the 
material will run straight with the waist line ; pin it so that 
it will be firm ; then run a tracing wheel all around it, close 
to the edge of the pattern ; make the impression so that it 
can be plainly seen on both sides of the cloth. 

Allow 2 inches on the front line in drafting the front, 
and I inch on the back line in drafting the back, when none 
is allowed on the pattern for the spring in the center of the 
bottom of the back, and for width across the bust ; allow i 
an inch for seam all around the edge, except the neck and 
arm-hole, there allow nothing. 

Do not cut out the darts till the garment is being made. 

In cutting a lining to a sleeve from the pattern, have the 
threads of the lining run straight with a line across the 
sleeves at the elbow. 

The lining and sleeve should be 2 inches larger than the 
arm-hole, and the fullness sewed in around the top of the 
sleeve for a plain coat-sleeve, and more than 2 inches 
allowed and fulled in for a full sleeve. 

DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING AND BASTING THE 

MATERIAL. 

Lay each piece of the lining on the material so that the 
thread of the lininir will run straio-ht with the thread of 
the material, and both straight with the waist line. 

Baste all around and near edge of each piece, and both 
sides of the darts, and make stitches not less than five to 
the inch ; cut the material a little larger than the lining ; 
do not cut out the darts till the material is being made. 



New York Self Instructing System and Chart. 27 

Baste the right side first, commencing at the top of the 
darts and baste down on the Hnes made by the impression 
of the tracinof wheel. 

Next, baste the side-piece onto the front, by the impres- 
sions made for the seam under the arm, commencing at the 
upper part and baste dowm. Baste the darts on the other 
side of the front, commence at the top of the darts and pin 
them together by the lines made by the tracing wheel ; 
have the pins not over 2 inches apart, and baste from the 
bottom up ; pin the side-piece and front together, by com- 
mencing at the top and pin down, but baste from the bot- 
tom up. 

Now baste the side-piece' onto the back, commence at 
the upper part and baste down, baste the other side-piece 
onto the back, by commencing at the upper part and pin it 
toward the bottom, by the impressions made by the tracing 
wheel, and baste from the bottom up. 

The shoulder seam of the back should be i an inch longer 
than the shoulder seam of the front. 

Now baste the shoulder seam of the back onto the front, 
commence at the neck and have the ends even, then full in 
the i inch on the back onto the front, so that the other 
ends will be even when basted, be sure and have your seams 
even, and the basting on the line made by the tracing wheel. 

Baste the side-pieces of the front and back together under 
the arm, commencing at the top ; baste the side-pieces on 
the other side together by commencing at the upper part, 
and place the ends even, and pin them together down to the 
bottom by the impressions, commence at the bottom and 
baste up, now join the other shoulder seams togf.;ther by 
commencing at the neck and pin together, at the same time 
full in the i inch of the back onto the front, baste from 
the other end toward the neck. 

Observe the same rules in cutting and basting a sleeve, 
always have the ends even at the top before basting. 



28 Directions for Using the 

The same directions used in basting a basque, will apply 
to basting a dress. 

DIRECTIONS FOR DRAFTING A SLEEVE PATTERN. 

Take four measures : 

1. Hold the arm nearly level with the shoulder, and at a 
right angle at the elbow, and measure from the arm-hole on 
the back to the elbow, from there to the wrist, set down 
your measure. 

2. Measure around the arm close to the body, about as 
tiorht as desired when the sleeve is made. 

3. Measure around the arm at the elbow, with the arm 
in the same position as when the length was taken. 

4. Measure around the hand. 

The measures for this pattern are length 23 inches, 
around the arm 1 2 inches, around the elbow 1 1 inches, 
around the hand 8 inches. 

Draft the upper part first, and commence by taking a 
sheet of heavy drafting paper and draw a perpendicular line 
on the left side about 10 inches long, mark it J, then meas- 
ure with the dart rule 24 inches toward the right, and draw 
another line of the same length and parallel with the first 
line, and mark it F, then draw a line near the edge of the 
paper from line J to line P. 

Lay the end of the sleeve rule at H, even and square 
with the line J, also with the line from J to P, then dot on 
line from J to P, opposite A, B, C, D, move the rule to the 
right so that A, will be even with line P, and dot on the line 
at the left end of the rule, and mark it O. 

Draw a perpendicular line to the dot made at A, and 
mark it K, draw one at B, and mark it L, draw a line at C, 
and mark it M, draw one at D, and mark it N, setting these 
letters by the lines. 

Now place the sleeve rule by the side of line J, the end 
at H, even and square with the line from J to P, then dot 



New York Self-Instructing System and Chart. 29 

opposite figure 3 on line J, dot on line K, opposite figure 5, 
dot on line M, opposite figure 2, place the rule on line N, 
and dot opposite figure 5 and on line P, and dot at figure 4. 

Place H, on the sleeve rule at the dot made on line J, 
and draw a line to the dot on line K, then turn the rule over 
and draw a line from the dot on line J, to the dot at the 
bottom of line L, place B, on the sleeve rule on the dot 
made on line L, and draw a line to the dot on line M, then 
move B, on the rule to dot on line M, and draw a line to dot 
on line O. 

Place B, on the sleeve rule at dot on line N, and draw a 
line to dot on line P, place the dart rule at the dot on line 
N, about 2 inches from the small end and the other end 
and the side toward you at dot on line K, draw a line from 
one dot to the other. 

Take the same rule and draw a straight line from dot on 
line P, to dot at the bottom of line O, cut it out by the out- 
side lines. (See illustration 15.) 

DIRECTIONS FOR DRAFTING THE UNDER PART. 

Take the other part of the paper or another piece and 
draw a perpendicular line on the left side of the paper, 
about 8 inches long and mark it Q ; then measure to your 
right 21 inches, being 3 inches shorter than the upper part 
of the sleeve, then draw a perpendicular line parallel with 
the other, and mark it V ; then draw a line near the edge 
of the paper, from one line to the other. 

Now lay the end of the sleeve rule, marked H, even 
with the line O, also with the other line and dot opposite 
E, F, G ; then place line on rule marked E, on line marked 
V, and dot at the end of the rule, draw a line to this dot 
parallel to line V, and mark it U. 

Draw a perpendicular line to dot made at E, and mark 
it R ; draw one at dot made at F, and mark it S ; draw a 
line at dot made at G, and mark it T. 



New York Self-Instructing System and Chart. 3 



Place the rule by the side of line O, the end at H, even 
and square with the other line and dot opposite figure 8. 
Move the rule to line S, and dot opposite figure 6 ; move 
the rule to line T, and dot opposite figure 9 ; move the rule 
to line V. and dot opposite figure 7. 

Place I, on rule at dot on line O, and draw a line to the 
dot at the bottom line R ; place B, on rule to dot on line R, 
letting the other end be at dot on line S, and draw a line 
from dot to dot ; move the rule and draw line from dot on 
line S, to dot on line U ; place the same side of the rule at 
dot on line T, and draw a line to dot on line V. 

Place the dart rule at the dot on line T, about 2 inches 
from the small end, the other end, and the side toward you 
at dot on line O, draw a line from dot to dot ; with the 
same rule draw a line from dot on line V, to dot on line U. 

Cut it out by the lines on the outside. 

Should you wish a larger pattern, add to the fore-arm 
seam an equal on both sides, never allow any on the other 
sides ; to make it smaller, cut it off equal on the fore-arm 
sides. 

To make it longer, add equal to both ends ; to make it 
shorter, cut it off equal at top and bottom. (See illustra- 
tion 16.) 

DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING SKIRTS. 

Take four measures — 

Length in front, as long as the skirt is desired ; 

Length at the side of the skirt ; 

Length down the back ; and 

Size around the waist. 

The width of the bottom of the skirt should be equal to 
twice the length of the side measure, and sometimes more- 

When the waist measure is 24 inches, take gores off the 
length of the front breadth on both sides, so that what 
remains wdll be 15 or 16 inches wide at the top. 



Directions for Using the System. 



Take a gore off the length of each side breadth of suffi- 
cient width so that the remaining part will be only 7 or 8 
inches wide at the top. 

Take a gore off at the top of each of these from the 
straight side, 2^ inches wide at the top, tapering to a point 
from 12 to 15 inches down from the top. 

Take no orore off from the back breadth. 

To prevent the skirt from drooping in front, cut the front 
part half an inch shorter in the centre at the top, slanting it 
toward the sides, in such a manner that there will be noth- 
ing taken off there. 

The straight side of the side gores should be sewed onto 
the front part, and the goring sides onto the back breadth. 



Parties wishing to become agents for the sale of this 
SelfTnstructing System and Chart, will receive a circular 
giving the wholesale price-list, also full directions how to 
remit money and other valuable information, by addressing 

THE BRIGGS CHART CO., 

Albany, N. Y. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




014 061 910 3 I 



This System and Chart is published only by the Briggs 
Chart Company, located at Albany, N. Y. 

This company was incorporated according to the laws of 
the State of New York, in March, 1889, for the expres':^'' 
purpose of publishing, introducing and selling this System 
and Chart in every city, village and town in the United 
States and Canada. 

The officers are : 

D. B. BRIGGS, SARAH L. BRIGGS, J. M. BRIGGS, 

President. Vice-President. Secretary and Treasurer. 

^1889^ 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




014 061910 3 



